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Thread: Adventures in DIY

  1. #301
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    Looking forward to seeing the final product. Are you going to French Polish it? The work you have done on the surface looks excellent and easily smooth enough for that finish.

  2. #302
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    No, I've never tried French polishing and I don't think this is a good piece for it. I think it would take forever and since this is something that would see a fair bit of hands-on use, it would be too prone to scratching. I'll be using a wiping varnish (Waterlox) thinned 1:1 with naptha.
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  3. #303
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    Quote Originally Posted by PetersCreek View Post
    No, I've never tried French polishing and I don't think this is a good piece for it. I think it would take forever and since this is something that would see a fair bit of hands-on use, it would be too prone to scratching. I'll be using a wiping varnish (Waterlox) thinned 1:1 with naptha.
    I had never heard of Waterlox so had a look at some Youtube videos - looks good. Again I have never heard of anyone using Naptha as a thinner here. A bit of googling reveals that a product with the "brand name" of Shellite, that I knew of, is basically the same thing.

    Just goes to show that "brand names" can confuse the issue between countries.

    Regardless, I am sure the end product of your labours (Not to mention spelling differences) will be worth the effort.

  4. #304
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    "Shellite" is also the name of the explosive filler in British naval artillery shells in the 1920's and '30's. Be sure you get the correct one.
    Cum catapultae proscriptae erunt tum soli proscript catapultas habebunt.

  5. #305
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trebuchet View Post
    "Shellite" is also the name of the explosive filler in British naval artillery shells in the 1920's and '30's. Be sure you get the correct one.
    "Brand names" confusing the issue again! The naptha based Shellite is bad enough mixing picric acid in with it would produce very interesting pieces of furniture.

  6. #306
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    Quote Originally Posted by ozduck View Post
    I had never heard of Waterlox so had a look at some Youtube videos - looks good. Again I have never heard of anyone using Naptha as a thinner here. A bit of googling reveals that a product with the "brand name" of Shellite, that I knew of, is basically the same thing.

    Just goes to show that "brand names" can confuse the issue between countries.

    Regardless, I am sure the end product of your labours (Not to mention spelling differences) will be worth the effort.
    Thanks. About naphtha, it's not really a well defined term. There are many formulations but I just use one of the VM&P (varnish makers & painter) Naphtha products commonly available at local home centers and paint/finish suppliers. It's a very good general purpose cleaning and degreasing solvent but I don't think it's used as a thinner in the shop all that often. I keep mineral spirits, lacquer thinner, and denatured alcohol on hand for that. But I read a tip about using it with Waterlox, which has a somewhat slow cure time. Naphtha flashes off much faster than mineral spirits and the source suggested using it to aggressively thin the Waterlox to reduce drying time. Many more coats are needed and it doesn't build much of a film but the drying time between coats is remarkably reduced.
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  7. #307
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    It's finally done. The last coat of finish went on the final piece last night. It just needs to cure out for a few days before the clients pick it up.

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  8. #308
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    beautiful!

  9. #309
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    Lovely - would like it for myself!

  10. #310
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    Quote Originally Posted by PetersCreek View Post
    It's finally done. The last coat of finish went on the final piece last night. It just needs to cure out for a few days before the clients pick it up.
    Looks like it turned out really well. What's going on with the top? I can't tell from those photos.

  11. #311
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    I just now repaired a leaky shutoff valve for the water supply to my forced air humidifier. It was leaking around the stem and was threatening to flood the basement, and I figured it was the bonnet seal, a rubber washer around the stem that is squeezed by tightening the bonnet on the valve body. After shutting off the water and draining the pipes, I disassembled the valve and found a lot of mineral crud from decades of exposure to our hard water. I soaked the parts in vinegar to loosen the crud and then wiped everything clean. The rubber washer appeared to be in good shape so I did not bother to look for a replacement. At this point I decided to take a chance, assuming the washer to be neoprene, which is not bothered by oil or grease. I greased the parts before reassembling the valve, to help in making sure the washer seats properly and the threads are smooth when being tightened. Presto! No more leak. I used Selmer tuning slide and cork grease, which is made for musical instruments. I have been using it to lubricate the tuning slides on my horn for close to 50 years, and I am not even close to using up a 2-ounce bottle in that period of time.

  12. #312
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    Quote Originally Posted by geonuc View Post
    Looks like it turned out really well. What's going on with the top? I can't tell from those photos.
    Thanks. The original concept of this project...oh, so long ago...was that of a stand on which to display a taxidermy mount that would also conceal its lackluster casework.





    The base of the mount sits in the "well" over the wine rack and the removable trim completes the concealment.
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    Man is a tool-using animal. Nowhere do you find him without tools; without tools he is nothing, with tools he is all. — Thomas Carlyle (1795-1881)

  13. #313
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    Beautiful job, Brett.

  14. #314
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    Thanks, Torsten. Quite a bit of progress since your visit, I think. The major glue-up wasn't even complete then. I've been working on it so long, it's going to feel strange not having it there in the shop, calling my name. I admit I was a bit restless last night, having the feeling that I should've been out there doing something productive. I actually did go out a couple times...under the pretext of getting a beer but really I just ran my hand over it a time or two, feeling aimless.
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    Man is a tool-using animal. Nowhere do you find him without tools; without tools he is nothing, with tools he is all. — Thomas Carlyle (1795-1881)

  15. #315
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    Looking at the pictures from the visit, you had at least two of the bottle rack assemblies together and stained, and had a clamp across the top front of the main structure.

    Well, I refinished an oak coffee table that was bought twenty years ago, and which my youngest daughter, then 2 1/2 years old, promptly poured something onto that discoloured it. Oddly, I didn't mind that, but the eventual fading of the stain and cracking of the finish was too much to look at. I managed to stretch that project out over a week.

    I have moved the pine boards that have been seasoning in the hallway upstairs onto sawhorses in my office, to get them closer to the workshop and to where I can't avoid them any longer. I'm not as confident about starting the project (a headboard with attached night tables), partly because I still haven't settled on a couple of design details, and because the boards are not as straight as I'd hoped they'd be. So I'll have some work to do. Not sure if I dare post pics. Maybe if it turns out okay.

    Hornblower, I like your story about re-purposing the slide grease. I once used a bit of the oil provided with the Braun electric razors to lubricate the ink cartridge slide on a 36" plotter, but perhaps tuning slide grease would have been better. The thing still seemed noisy and to vibrate, although the plot quality was acceptable.

  16. #316
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    Just two more pictures to wrap this project up. The clients picked up the display wine rack this morning and just sent me some photos with the ducks in place:



    Not shown, is the glass cover but then, that wouldn't likely photograph too well. They posted on Facebook that they're quite pleased with it so I am too...and a little relieved. There was that distant little voice in the back of my head wondering if it might not turn out as they expected. Well, it can just shut up now. I mentioned upthread that it felt odd not to be working on it anymore but that was nothing compared to it being gone.
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  17. #317
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    I realized I'd written "stained" in the last post, but as I understand it, you only used boiled linseed oil to bring out that deep colour? And the Waterlox adheres well to that?

  18. #318
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    Quote Originally Posted by Torsten View Post
    I realized I'd written "stained" in the last post, but as I understand it, you only used boiled linseed oil to bring out that deep colour? And the Waterlox adheres well to that?
    While it's not a stain in the traditional sense, I wouldn't have quibbled. Since it darkens the wood and imparts an amber tone, it has the appearance of having been stained. Being a wiping varnish, Waterlox contains a drying oil (Tung oil vs. BLO) so it adheres quite well. Since BLO is a drying (polymerizing) oil, you can apply other finishes over it, including water-based products and shellac. The latter is especially common among woodworkers.
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    Man is a tool-using animal. Nowhere do you find him without tools; without tools he is nothing, with tools he is all. — Thomas Carlyle (1795-1881)

  19. #319
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    Well, I took those pine boards I mentioned a few posts ago and built the headboard. It's a simple design that suits me. Night tables will complete it, but they'll be done when I feel like continuing with the project...

    The boards (short ones and one of the wide ones are for the night tables):


    One of the intermediate steps, in which I learned how not to do this:


    And the result after a lot of sanding and 6 coats of satin Varathane:


    I'm happy with it. Now the wall needs some colour, and art ...
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  20. #320
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    just seeing little black Xs for your pix, Torsten, but sounds pretty nice

  21. #321
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    Thanks, LookingSkyward, edited and maybe they'll work now. They were visible on my end, but that's what I get for playing with the tags!

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    Now they have links, but the links go to 'Invalid Attachment specified'

  23. #323
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    That really weird. I see them as pictures.

    They looks very nice.
    Solfe

  24. #324
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    I can't get the CQ attachments to work the way I want them to. So I went back to my old image host, which is abysmally slow for uploading these days.

    ETA. And maybe Solfe saw the CQ attachments versions as I'd intended!
    Last edited by Torsten; 2016-Dec-09 at 12:18 AM.

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    Lovely! nice work, Torsten!

  26. #326
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    That looks great, Torsten. The natural finish nicely complements the clean design.
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  27. #327
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    Thanks guys. I was a little depressed after I first glued those wide boards together. I'd routed the edges using a clamped straight edge in order to remove both slight bows and planning defects from the mill, as well as the slightly eased edge. But the assembled panel was still warped from a larger twist in one of the pieces. Thinking about it a little more, I realized that cutting the arch would get rid of the worst of it and the subsequent stress from forcing it straight would be manageable over the length of the piece. Time will tell, I suppose.

  28. #328
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    Quote Originally Posted by Torsten View Post
    [...] But the assembled panel was still warped from a larger twist in one of the pieces. Thinking about it a little more, I realized that cutting the arch would get rid of the worst of it and the subsequent stress from forcing it straight would be manageable over the length of the piece. Time will tell, I suppose.
    An idea for the nightstands, if you intend to make panels for them...or for future panel glue up...you could try using a spline to align the planks and increase glue surface. You would just need a slot cutting router bit to match the thickness of a strip of Masonite/hardboard/high density fiberboard or whatever they call it in your neck of the woods. Now, if you happen to have a biscuit joiner...
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    Man is a tool-using animal. Nowhere do you find him without tools; without tools he is nothing, with tools he is all. — Thomas Carlyle (1795-1881)

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    Oh, a biscuit joiner... That was on my wish list many years ago the first time I saw one. At the time our family budget was really tight, and I was building shelving from 1x4 that I dowelled together. I still have the tool for that, though it hasn't been used in over 20 years.

    I'm still undecided on the nightstands. The general idea was to have a short board project out each side from just below the headstand panel, attached to the leg and the bottom of the panel, and onto which a single shelf would be mounted. Nothing would touch the floor. But I've waffled back and forth on whether I ought to make it with a drawer, or a second shelf below the main one. If it's a single shelf, I'd love it to be cantilevered rather than have supports below it that go back to the board. But there are issues of strength. I need the board to be sufficiently wide to prevent it tearing from the leg in the event that something dumb should happen, like someone sitting on it. But I want a clean, light design. If it's a double shelf or has a drawer, then that effectively balances or hides the width of the board, but I'm not sure I want either of those. An answer will eventually come to me...

    The like the idea of using splines on the edges. I don't have that kind of bit, but think I saw one in Dan's collection the other day. (Yes, we trust each other enough to share tools )

  30. #330
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    I find the biscuit joiner invaluable. I use mine a lot.

    Nice headboard, Torsten. Simple yet interesting design.

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